'Heart Of Chrome' DNR October 14th 1991
HEART OF CHROME: Blondie’s Debbie Harry might have preferred a Heart Of Glass, but for this Rock ‘n’ Roll custom house gone wholesale, it’s chrome all the way.
By: Robert Perola
LOS ANGELES - John Bowman is a bit harried.
"We're making an outfit for Cher," he explains, walking back into Chrome Hearts' workroom where the heady smell of leather; which permeates the whole office, grows even stronger.
Actually it's two outfits for Cher. It seems the star called that morning to order something she needs that night for a listening party that her last boyfriend, Bon Jovi's Richie Sambora, was holding at the Griffith Observatory — the problem is she hasn't decided if she is going to wear leather or suede, so the company is making both.
This sort of day isn't new to Bowman and his partners.
Richard Stark and Leonard Kamhout, who've been making custom leathers and sterling silver jewelry for rock 'n' rollers like Billy Idol, Aerosmith, Lenny Kravitz, Guns N' Roses, Heart's Ann and Nancy Wilson and Cher for the past two and a half years.
Chrome Hearts could best be described as Hip Upscale Heavy Metal/Biker and can be found at retailers like Maxfield, Ultimo, Browns of London and Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Gar-cons stores in Japan.
"We pride ourselves on the fact we can turn anything out in 24 hours," says Bowman, smiling as he leaves two older craftsmen working on a purple suede cross that's being inlaid in the back of Cher's leather vest.
Bowman looks like one of those motorcycle archetypes your mother might have warned you about. Except for the fact he loves to ride ("my motorcycle jacket has logged 175,000 miles"), the stereotype ends there. He's a former South African CPA who had come to the States for a three-week vacation and simply never left.
Though the men's and women's wholesale line isn't nearly as extensive or outrageous as some of its custom work, there is nothing inexpensive about these clothes and accessories. Retail prices range from $925 to $8,500 for the leathers, including vests, jackets and pants, and $95 to $4,500 for the jewelry.
All the hardware on the leathers is sterling silver (there is no chrome in the line) and is customized down to the grommets and snaps. There is also an ample amount of suede inlay work throughout the collection. Next year they plan on adding 18-carat gold for the jewelry only.
While showing off the amazing breadth of sterling silver chains, ID bracelets, belts, neck-laces, earrings, watch and wallet chains, rings and other exquisite pieces in the line, Bowman talks about his past.
"I had a company, Street's Ahead, that used to make belts," he begins. "Since everyone basically gets the same hardware from the same sources, I started making my own. Stores would ask us to do sterling silver - since st the time Barry Kisselstein-Cord was the only person doing it. So we did."
Along the way he met Kamhout, who works with the silver; and then Stark, who was selling him his raw leathers at the time.
"We (Stark and Bowman) both ride motorcycles and didn't like any of the jackets that were out there." Bowman continues. “So we made our own riding gear. I’ve been working with leather since I was 12.”
Speak of the devil. The door swings open and Stark, who also has that rough-and-tumble biker look, arrives and settles in a chair.
The three men formed Chrome Hearts in early '89, and that March they did outfits for a movie, "Chopper Chics in Zombie Town." Word soon got out in L.A. that Chrome Hearts was hot.
Why Chrome Hearts? "It’s a good name and we think it has infinite possibilities." Stark says. "We don't plan this to be a short-term thing. We'll have our own stores down the way.
"This business is for our kids." Stark emphasizes. "This is a fashion line, not just a biker or rock 'n' roller line."
Stark has a 15-year-old son, Bowman recently became a father and Kamhout has three kids and two grandchildren.
Although they have always done some wholesaling, the company is just seriously focusing on it now. And while they do more custom work for men, it’s the women’s side of the wholesale business that’s taken off faster.
The energy between the two men builds as they start to talk about the future, pulling out other items like pens, small chests and other gifts that haven't even been cast yet for reproduction. "We have so many more ideas that we just haven't had the time, or been able, to do," Stark says with a shrug. "We want to do limited edition items as well."
The two stop talking and look at their watches. "If there isn't anything else," Bowman asks, "we really need to get in the back and finish those two out-fits." The two get up and head for the workshop.
Chrome Hearts delivered one leather and one suede outfit to Cher on time. For those wondering, she wore the leather that night.