Interview with Ledgebound!
Fashion's Last True Punk
I feel like I say this every time I do an interview but doing DampMags has really allowed me to connect with a bunch of really cool people around the globe. Ledgebound has been supporting my page for some time now and I’ve been a fan of his clothing from the first time I saw it. With the design language and aesthetic similar to Vivienne Westwood’s Seditionaries label paired with careful craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail, Ledgebound’s items continue to impress me with every new release. While he’s a smaller independent designer in the outskirts of the Netherlands, I first saw one of his pieces in person in California. For a while I didn’t know much about the brand until I befriended Tomo who I mistakenly took as the designer behind the clothing but turned out to be a fan of Ledgebound as well. A few months ago I had the pleasure of finally meeting Mr. Ledgebound himself, we mobbed around Amsterdam, shot some photos, and he showed me more pieces in person.
DampMagazines: What is the story behind the name of your brand?
Ledgebound: The story is that at the ripe age of 17, my friend convinced me to make an Instagram for my digital art. So, as a game-art student with no clue what to name it, I started writing down a bunch of words. It took me a whole evening but in the end, I figured Ledgebound sounded nice. Plus it has multiple meanings. Though I did not choose it for meaning, I chose it purely out of need and sound. (I daresay ‘vibes’).
DM: In your words, how would you describe your clothing? Are there any particular audiences you aim to have your clothing fit for?
LB: It’s hard for me to describe my own clothing. In a way, I’m too close to the painting to see the final image. I’m just focused on the next brushstroke. That’s not to say I am unaware of any larger world surrounding my clothes, because I do focus on that. I just know what feels right and what doesn’t, but can’t describe either of those things. As for my audience, I hope they find me, since I am definitely not aiming for anyone specific.
DM: Who are some of your biggest inspirations in fashion and beyond and how do they influence your designs?
LB: This is very hard because there are so many things that inspire me. A lot of it happens subconsciously, which then comes out once I start sketching. What also happens a lot is that I look at clothes, and notice a certain design element that I really like, and when I see a different angle of that same thing, realize that it was not what I thought at all. There are a lot of small details or construction methods I have ‘found’ this way. It is very inconsistent though.
My main method for inspiration is just overdosing on quality movies, music, and art every day. Whatever sticks, sticks.
DM: You make each one of your pieces by hand, give us a little description of the process that goes into each garment.
LB: Usually a garment starts with a very simple idea. “Please make me a jacket” or “I feel like making a jacket today”. With that thought I start sketching, and in this phase I will figure out 70-80% of the jacket. (Construction, fabric, details, etc). Afterwards, I move to drafting the pattern. Using a mix of methods ranging from bespoke artisanal accurate millimeter work, to eyeballing it.
Depending on my level of confidence I will either make a sample from leftover fabric or move to make the garment. During both of these processes, I will still change random details. Switching closure, maybe different lining, moving pockets or collars, whatever. Also during this stage, I will hesitate, procrastinate, think about adding a graphic somewhere, and put on the jacket myself hundreds of times. Then when this final stage has been conquered I do the finishing by hand. Buttons, buttonholes, maybe some hand-stitching on the lining. It’s at this point my love and admiration for the garment turns to hate as it never turns out how I want.
DM: Quality seems like the utmost importance to you, how do you go about sourcing materials that meet your standards?
LB: Searching on the internet, local markets, and honestly just being lucky. Knowing what constitutes quality is a matter of experience and knowledge.
DM: What kinds of things do you like to reference or use as inspiration when making new pieces for Ledgebound?
LB: Most of the design and surrounding concept happens instantly and subconsciously. However when I get to a point where I'm stuck or trying to tie it together I look back and see what parts can be improved upon. There might be a certain theme or idea that I've stumbled upon. At that point it's the skill of recognizing that theme and building/improving on it. For the most part I've found a lot of my anger towards the system comes out here.
DM: Tell us a little bit about what it’s like growing up in the Netherlands and what the fashion and music scenes are like there.
LB: Growing up here, far away from big cities like Amsterdam and the Hague has definitely had an impact. Without doing anything out of the ordinary I'm already branded an outsider or weirdo. But that only strengthened my resolve. Besides a few hardcore punk bands there is virtually no music or fashion scene where I live. And the fashion scene in the country overall is muddled by the fact that everyone is an agreeable cunt. Nobody dares give (constructive) criticism lest you be branded a "hater". My favorite way to describe Dutch fashion is: "A dog that swallowed a necklace. Lots of shit and a few gems".
DM: Out of the items you have made so far, which has been your favorite and which has been the most challenging?
LB: I have unattainable standards so I tend to dislike all of my garments equally. None so far have really captured what I wanted to, or gripped me in a significant way to dub them my 'favorite'. The most challenging however was this asymmetrical jacket I made from silk canvas. The fabric had a rubbery bounce to it which made sewing corners and shapes a hell.
DM: If you were to give someone advice on starting their own cut and sewn clothing brand, what would it be?
LB: Don't start a brand. Make as many clothes in the best quality you can and when you've finally found your voice and style, wait one more year. Running a brand, making a website, making content, it's draining. Especially so if you haven't found your style or what to say with your garments. And when you start, don't be afraid to start over. Change your logo, change your name, who cares.
DM: If you could do a collaboration with any brand, big or small, who would it be and what would it look like?
LB: There are no brands or designers I really want to collaborate with. However, the painter Phil Hale is a big inspiration to me, and a collab with him would be amazing. He has an innate sense for movement and color, with a violent realism that I also like to channel. Translating all of that into garments together would be a dream come true.
DM: What are your future goals for Ledgebound and where do you hope to see it go?
LB: My most recent goal is to organize my own runway show. Something which has been proven to be quite difficult as a one-person team.
In the future I hope to increase the size of my team, and increase production while still focusing on made-to-measure and bespoke. But since my views on profit and labour don't comply with capitalism, growth is a slow process.
DM: What can we be looking forward to seeing from Ledgebound in the near future?
LB: The runway show in Amsterdam! And just lots of new creations. As time goes on my craft and ideas will only improve. (If I manage to stay afloat and not suffer the dire consequences of not having a sense of business).
Special thanks to Ledgebound for letting me capture these photos and doing this interview. His creativity and attention to detail is so refreshing to me in a world so heavily captured by fast fashion and pump and dump campaigns. If you liked these images and interview I definitely recommend you check out his Instagram, @ledgebound, and website! I can’t wait to hopefully get a custom outfit from him in the future.